DIY Speakers for Less Than $300!

Why spend more money than you have to on a home audio setup?

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Buy speaker cabinets on Amazon:

Buy TriTrix MTM Speakers on PartsExpress:

Regalian Ox’s experience/overview:

Link to the DIY jig page (unfortunately can’t put it in a card since it’s not a site owned by us, sorry 🙁 ):

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Intro Screen Music Credit:
Title: Laszlo – Supernova
Video Link:
iTunes Download Link:
Artist Link:

Outro Screen Music Credit: Approaching Nirvana – Sugar High

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Guessers12 says:

Is it just me, or is linus’s voice soo soothing in that intro 🙂

Al-Iskander Al-Albani says:

Terrible. I will still buy KEF.

Ludo 3. odeljenje Skole Sveti Sava says:

These are actually really bad for 300$

#チモムマツ' says:

With $300 you can get WAY better speakers than that 😀

Headout says:

Wait you filled it with foam??? Okie Dokie Linus

SOARING Simulator says:

Hey Linus Team! I have some questions for game audio development, improvement and features videos Tech Tips: I have built a custom 7.1 100w (each one) following your inspiration using passive speakers. And now I discover that is not possible to connect them directly to the 7.1 audio card. Is that true? Can I burn the audio card? How do I link an Asus Trix (for example Soar) 7.1 audio or any 7.1 PC output to (your excellent 100w custom ) “Passive” 7 speakers? How to wire the connection from the audio card to the speakers for best sound result, optical or digital or analogic output? What amplifier to buy or build that has a 7.1 input? Can I use a custom amplifier homemade, car amplifier or must be a traditional 7.1 amplifier (in that case what to choose because in general, this awesome and stupid amplifier do not include 7.1 pc inputs). In that case, what is this 7.1 output for? And Since I’m making a Soaring Simulator, I wish to add an extra 8 speakers on top of the room roof, if it is possible (if I get an extra top output[Do not know well how]). So when the sailplane is passing over the tower like in “Top Gun” the player can feel it on top! Thanks a lot for your super awesome channel!

Mr. x says:

Sanddd that shittt

Rex Holes says:

PartsExpress also has full kits with precut boards they look pretty cool

Robert Kattner says:

The speakers actually cost 1500.00, you need the tools, speakers, crossover, wood, glue,
And lots of time. I bought similar speakers from Polk audio for 300.00 a pair!

Mad Cow says:

“-At a relatively low cost” (Set is $150) Linus, excuse me?

Zombie Crafters says:

Lol he said what it was called saying he didn’t know

Ewoud Weijmans says:

why don’t you have linn speakers

Veritas Germania says:


angel me says:

If you really do some extensive research, you’ll find out that with about 600-800 bucks, you can make yourself an equivalent of 4000 bucks speakers… The tweetters and woofers used in this built might not be that high quality or the cabinet might have wrong dimentions. Also, where are the holes for releasing the base out of the cabinets? (that’s propably why they lacked base) For me creating your own speakers is the right way to go. Is it easy? No! Will you make great speakers with the first try? Propably not. There are so much to take into consideration when building speakers, from the quality and type of the wood, to the quality of the foam or wool you’ll be using. The cabinet must have the perfect dimentions for the tweeters and woofers used (there is some special software to help you with that). A friend of mine did make a pair of speakers woth 4000 bucks by only spending a good 500-600 bucks and the sound quality is incomparable, but it took him some time to gather the right materials and make the speakers. Is it worth the trouble? If you are experienced with wood work and electronics, it totally does! Linus here is right in some degree, if you do something slightly wrong, you’ll lose big or even huge amounts of audio quality, all must be as perfect as possible. But if you can get just the right materials and have just the right knowledge, you’ll most propably end up with one of the best sounding speakers you could ever imagine owning.

Ovidiu Cretu says:

The paint job looks very bad.

Rick DaCosta says:

Poor cabinet build will destroy the sound of any speaker. You may want to try again with a solid cabinet, preferably two layers of 3/4 mdf laminated together. Easy on the fill, its supposed to be loosely packed.

Jaouad Saddouki says:

If i have $300 to spare for a fucking speakers I wouldn’t be here watching how to make one myself .

sebastjan p says:

Add subwofer on pc box

Edward Wood says:

I want know about cut-love-cut medical care.

Dominic Dymond says:

You could add passive radiators to increase low frequency performance. Also you might want to seal the box and make sure you have enough passive radiator displacement capability.

vivian zhang says:

For whatever reason, I cant seem to hear the difference between some ten dollar speakers from ebay, and some really expensive ones, but the only ones that I can hear the difference, are the ones from those birthday cards that play music.                                       And also, you should really build the amp case out of something better than MDF, such as some oak, or plywood, etc.                                     Also, what class of amplifier is it? [class D, class AB, class A, etc.]

Kyocus says:

Hey Linus, I used Squarespace because of you, and I’m a developer. I didn’t have the time to put together a polished site from scratch for my wedding. If you see this let me know what you think.

moritz 0072 says:

Just buy 80€ Car Premium speakers and put them into wooden chassis then buy a good amplifier and you are good to Go for under 150€.

Joël Fortin says:


FishFish1995 says:

If you think that trusting a random design from the internet will give you the perfect sound results for the buck, then suit yourself and R.I.P. the research you need to do before building a quality sound system…

William Townsend says:

So I am wanting to make a Bluetooth speaker using the TDA7492 50 W + 50 W dual BTL class-D amplifier and a some automotive 2 way speakers. I also have 7 samsung icr18650-30a batteries that are 3.7v in series that’s 25.9v and 19,000mah. So my question is what wall power adapter should I use to power and recharge the system? Also what would be the rough battery run time?

kirbythebamf says:

You didn’t mention how you powered them

Justwantahover says:

You can make great tweeters that handle heaps of power for hardly anything. I got an amp that has 200 + 200 watts @ 0.1% distortion, and I haven’t blown one tiny full-range “tweeter” yet (and I keep blowing normal tweeters all the time). So I had to do something, so I tried using 2″ full-range speakers (Logitech one’s) from computer speakers. lol But I radically modified them and I run them out of the box (slightly resisted for 6 ohms). With a sharp object I scribed a line around the voice coil center on the full-range cone, about 5 mm out, around in a circle. This allows more transient response cos it can vibrate like independently to the rest of the cone. I also got rid of the center piece on the full range speaker and left a hole in the center. I then glued a 6 mm triangle made of coffee-can-seal (tin-foil) onto where the cone starts, and the tin-foil triangle is pointed in toward the center. The foil makes cymbals sound like they are being hit and sound like they are made of metal. lol Great “S’s” too, really pleasant treble (with power handling). Also being ran outside-the-box is essential cos it not only makes the treble go higher, but also makes the treble louder. And the top-end is so sweet (when it’s ran out-of-the-box). Only use a 2.2 mf cap on the 2″ full-range, any bigger cap will sound harsh (being out-of-the-box) and so you obviously need to run it with the cap on (and never without one when out-of-the-box). lol The cap also makes the treble go higher than without a cap, cos the cap “pushes” the high-end signal through the cap more than it would normally flow (without the cap). And with the small cap, it will increase frequency response in the top-end and this is also how you get such a great power handling. A 2.2 mf cap with 200 watts going through the full-range is like 2 watts without the cap (which is about what the speakers normally handle). 2 watter full-ranges have thicker voice-coils than tweeters and that’s why they handle so much (with a cap). But if you get high wattage tiny full-range drivers, they will have even thicker voice-coils. So the 2 watters are better. lol Combined with the two mods mentioned above, and being out-of-the-box, and with the cap, it sounds pretty amazing for how cheap it is. Try it, before you start thinking I’m a nut-job. 🙂 I run mine with 6″ med drivers (coaxial and phase-aligned) set inside a large voice-coil throat in the med drivers (rare as rocking horse shit). I also run the med driver out-of-the-box (with the 2″ full-ranges in the centers. Running med out-the-box is tricky, I choked and heavily resisted the out-of-the-box med and combined with some med coming from the woofer as well (and blended). The woofer is in a double chamber bass reflex box. They are the best speakers I have heard, with the open cone sound combined with mellow med from the woofer (blended as much as I can with the crossover). To run med speakers out-of-the box you have to be really radical with the crossover to make it sound even acceptable. lol But I have practice a lot and my speakers are sounding much better, since I started and it’s a lot easier to make crossovers. The crossover is more expensive than the drivers (the copper coils). Cheap woofers are “boomy” but sound great with the right crossover (that costs more than the woofer). The sound quality is there but badly lack efficiency after making it sound good with the crossover. lol But my full-range tweeters are not very efficient either (but sound amazing and high power handling) and with 200 watts who needs efficiency. But my speakers are still way-way more efficient than electrostatic speakers (by-a-large-measure). And with phase-aligned treble&med and the out-of-the-box open sound, they sound nearly as good as electrostatics. But at a small fraction of the price.

User Unknown says:


doseone94 says:

I love your channel but those speakers look awful! Did you make them look like that on purpose or did you just say “fuck it” to the paint job after all the hard work building the cabinets?

SenseiKai says:

Mello gang!

Maciej Szczepanski says:

Very messy and carelessly done.

shurdi3 says:

3:44 Robertson screw. So Canadian….

Droidz Hunterz says:

Why are they comparing towers vs mtm bookshelf speakers? Of course the towers have better bass due to more cabinet volume

Bran Tse Mallory says:

First off the KEF units you have are not even monitor quality… Then there is the look of them… For a few $’s more you could of had some professional wood worker make you anything better.
Secondly, the KEF units you bought are really not that great either! Even a pair of 30 year old Rogers Export Monitors are better and worth more too.

Jimmy Jones says:

What a loada kit shit , go buy some goddam speakers not build this horse shit !!

yogibear2k10 says:

Speakers $300. Cost of tools and materials, $1000. Think I will stick to pre-made!

Jorge C says:

does not sound better without the filling? great vids btw!

Greg Adams says:

The difference between industrially built speakers with large jigs and hole saws vs home-built does make a difference. You cannot use filler/putty to make up the difference in cutting mistakes. Putty will cause you to lose that bass kick. Search out video and watch how a professional auto detail shop makes custom subs and you will see.

thecaffineman says:

Damn bad script writing lol

someonewho Cares says:

I have been Building Sub Boxes for better the 22 years and you can use MDF But also you can use Plywood, that was a hot choice in the 90’s for sub boxes! But if you want that top of the line sound then adding Birch to some added inside framing pieces of ether would have set this DIY Project above the prebuild in sound quality! I’d almost bet the prebuilt speaker had some kind of solid wood framing inside:) Use birch pieces on the inside Frame! I reinforce them with 3/4″ all thread rod when making my speaker boxes. MDF alone will never give that top-notch rich sound quality as it is not a quality wood Alone! I like the sound of MDF better than plywood though and I recommend EZ-Loc threaded inserts as well if you plan on tweaking the sound later. Place them on the underneath side of the wood and use machine screws with socket heads to attach them. I use aeroports so I’m always changing things to tweak the tunning! A speaker A good one anyways actually has tunning but mostly not adjustable! That’s my touch! haha 🙂 One doesn’t have to do that if they don’t plan on tweaking but the birch wood inner framing yes it adds to the sound quality big time! 🙂 Think of a guitar, I have two one is junk wood inside not great kinda cheap Yamaha but sounds OK its a great daily instrument! But the other has a solid wood inner construction a Martin, which do you think sounds better? Oh yeah, the Martin! 🙂 And no don’t use a really solid woods like Oak to build the outside cab they muffle and distort sound as they are just too damn thick… I’m only talking building an inner frame made of a more solid wood to Improve the richness of the sound then retest 🙂

Rex Holes says:

LOL I have two sets of speakers I designed and built but I was careful to make them look professional

Snowwie88 says:

Next time, try to build a CONCRETE casing.

JL B says:

pute a click

Hendrilock Crestfallen says:

Deal with data. That’s what you are good at. Dsd bit perfect, no dop, no pcm. Using i2s usb module for native dsd (1024). Low pass filter for 35k hz and higher. Whatever else. Then plug it into the kefs. You could rock this tech vain, where none exist. Please. Use foo bar or j river on crap top. No raspberry pi needed. Nodac solution. Please.

Project PC says:


nicholas dean says:

No Taylor needs to do the scripts still 2:50

Raining Bass says:


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